Delhi Dhaba Punjabi Grill
7236 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, Md.
(301) 718-0008
Metro: Bethesda (red line)
$5-17 per dish
Grade: B-
It's hard to make Indian food work with every set of taste buds, so expecting Indian food to be a smash hit with every diner is not always possible. At Delhi Dhaba, an Indian restaurant right in the heart of downtown Bethesda, the chefs do their best to appeal to a wide array of taste buds. But sometimes the expansive menu and the aloof waitstaff make it difficult to fully enjoy the Indian food experience.
At Delhi Dhaba, there is always a table, or so it seems. With locations in Bethesda, Arlington, and D.C. proper, finding some good Indian cooking never seemed so convenient. The Bethesda location is open, airy and welcomes customers with bright colors and festive Fiestaware (yes, the very same dishware used by the always lovely Terrace Dining Room, where it's a fiesta all the time).
On a Saturday night in the bustling metropolis of Bethesda, a time that could potentially leave diners with a substantial wait, there was no waiting necessary at Delhi Dhaba. This could be either a sign of efficient service, mediocre food, or perhaps a general dislike of Indian cuisine. In any case, service seemed prompt to begin with, as water glasses were filled after one sip and complimentary papadums were offered swiftly.
The menu takes time to peruse. The five-page long manual to Indian eating could confuse even the most experienced eater, and therefore, it takes some time to make good choices. And after a while, the constant attention of the waitstaff was grating, as the waiter pushed for his customers to order. Once ordered though, service began to drop off. It took time for food to come and some things came before they were expected. The traditional Indian flat bread known as naan, normally delivered with the rest of the meal, came far too early. By the time the other dishes came, all of the naan was gone and another order was necessary.
As a whole, the food is not bad but not on par with best of Indian food. For an average of $10 to $12 for an entr?e, it is not the cheapest either. The daal makhani, a lentil dish, was well prepared, very flavorful and served hot. Other favorites, such as chicken tikka masala (essentially cubes of chicken simmered in a tomato puree), fell flat as the normally potent spice coriander seemed lost in the overly generous amount of tomato sauce.
The chicken curry was tasty but not particularly inspiring. It's a curry that can be found in any cheap curry shop, and at $10.95 (a cheaper entr?e), it had much more to live up to. Palak paneer, which is spinach saut?ed with cubes of a soft Indian cheese, seemed bland, but offered a nice contrast to the other dishes on the table.
Perhaps the best offerings at Delhi Dhaba are from the tandoor oven. The tandoori half roast chicken (one of the cheaper large menu items offered) was tender and sophisticated, with the right amount of spice and clear attention to the ever-important slow roasting process.
After the plates were cleared, the meal seemed satisfying but lacked a certain sophistication required from nicer Indian cuisine. Service dropped off considerably after the food was delivered and a final clearing of the table and delivery of the bill took more time than deciding what to order.
Delhi Dhaba is a convenient, moderate choice for Indian food lovers. But for those looking to branch out and try Indian cuisine for the first time, begin your experience somewhere else. Or try Delhi Dhaba's much cheaper lunch buffet, which offers a wider array of dishes to choose from.
