While living in Rome, I often find myself wishing that I had 10 sets of eyes. Even on my short walk to campus each morning, I’m nearly tripping over the cobblestones because my eyes have traveled to the nearest lemon-tree-adorned balcony or window display of Italian leather shoes.
Last weekend I found myself wishing for multiple eyes once again. As I made my way through the Italian countryside to a wine tasting in Trequanda, Tuscany, I went into sensory overload as I tried to soak in the scenery around me. As the bus I was in passed tall Cypress trees perched on hillsides, crumbling stone houses and clusters of ivory sheep, I became excited for my first trip out of Rome.
The Fattoria del Colle winery is nestled on a Tuscan hilltop, with spectacular views of Siena to the east and the wineries of Montalcino to the west.
The winery was built in 1592 and boasts 23 acres of vineyards and olive groves. Donatella Cinelli Colombini inherited the farm from her ancestors, and today she runs the Fattoria with her family. As far as wineries go, Donatella’s is groundbreaking because it is the first to hire only female wine-makers. To this day, only women run the winery.
Fattoria del Colle specializes in four types of red wine: Chianti Superiore, Cenerentola (which translates in English to “Cinderella”), Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino. In addition to wine, the Chianti and Siena region produces the best goat cheese because the grasses and herbs that grow in the area give goat’s milk its distinct flavor.
I’m not the biggest fan of reds, but I gave the wines a reluctant try since the Italians drink it like tap water. The group and I tasted the Chianti and the Brunello di Montalcino in the wine tasting, but my favorite was the Rosso di Montalcino, which we tasted at lunch. It isn’t too dry or acidic and is sweeter than the Chianti and Brunello.
After the wine tasting we headed over to the Osteria di Donatella, where we were treated to a lesson in pasta making. The restaurant’s head chef taught us to make pichi, which is a spaghetti-like pasta specific to the Tuscany region. After the demonstration we headed over to the dining area and indulged in a traditional Tuscan peasant’s lunch.
For our first course, the antipasti, we were given a selection of salty prosciutto, salami freckled with peppercorns, slivers of mild pecorino cheese and classic bruschetta al pomodoro. For primi, our plates were piled high with pappardelle alla bolognese. With secondi came juicy roasted chicken thighs and legs and crispy potatoes with olive oil and rosemary. I have an unhealthy love for roast chicken, so at that point in the meal I was about to abandon my American life and run away with the chef. Then came the dessert course: a shortbread and strawberry jam tart. Delizioso!
I love living in Rome, but there’s something about the Tuscan lifestyle that’s so appealing. Touring the winery was like stepping back into another century and another way of life, where everything is slower and savored. The trip was a much-needed escape from the daily hustle and bustle of Rome. I’ve already pulled a Liz Gilbert by coming to Rome, but I’m contemplating taking a leaf out of Frances Mayes’ book and moving to Tuscany!
kholliday@theeagleonline.com
